Ah, Florence, the Renaissance jewel of a city celebrated for the Duomo, the Uffizi, the Boboli Gardens, and, for many tourists, the carnivorous thrill of huge red hunks of beef dangling brashly in ...

Florence is a whole hell of a lot in a very small place. But beyond the main squares filled with perfectly sculpted statues of naked men, groups of camera-wielding tourists, and annoying street ...